The 60's Comeback Chanel A/W 2005-6

AUTUMN/WINTER 2005-6 COUTURE

Chanel

From Camilla Morton, our dedicated follower of fashion, in Paris

BLEARY eyes or not, no one can afford to miss Chanel – even from behind dark shades. In couture's new and somewhat depleted state, Dior and Chanel are the two main hitters that stay standing – and Chanel is one with order books bulging. 

Just up the road from where Hedi Slimane showed his Dior Homme show earlier this week - well they are friends, oh and look there is Mr. Slimane sat next to Stephan Gan front row supporting Lagerfeld - even from the outside the venue pulsated chic chic chic. We were drawn in, past the swarms of eager paparazzi who apparently use the first press show as a way to test out their flash guns and play a fun game of 'how many editors can we blind on their way in'. Luckily the Jackson 5 medley at Galliano's aftershow party the night before meant nothing penetrated the steel-plated shades of this intrepid reporter… Until I got inside.

From an old derelict-looking building on the outside to a stark, crisp, white sphere-like podium with the circles getting smaller to the centre and seats around its orb. Easy listening music wafted over the sound system to prepare us. 

A procession of girls, head to toe in black, started to circle the set, circling and climbing the layers of the steps, following the bouffant backcombed beehive, decorated with black bows of a girl whose full-frilled cape, with high ruffled collar, billowed round her in a very mystical way, as if silver glitter sparkles danced around her eyes.

Capes, gowns, coats, and macs - all in black - all trailed and mounted the layers of the set as if it were a massive life size wedding cake – and yet they were all widows to the world. Been working in fashion too long then eh? Bouffants and bows, a satin tuxedo, feathers, embroidery and beading, but all restrained in black, following the opening high priestess. Audrey Marney in a classic Coco Chanel-style quilted coat, black tweeds, and 60s PVC style macs. Yep, black was back.

But is it? Lagerfeld is far too clever to make it that simple. So once his widow cake was full and everyone was in place, they all opened their coats, capes, unbuttoned the top layer (flashers beware: you could be in Vogue before you know it), and, as if from under a black cloud came bursts of pinks, pastels, acids and embroidery. The girls slid out of their top layer to reveal sophisticated day suits and, as the circle unspiralled, the girls came down in day-to-cocktail-to-night-to-black tie and beyond. The lining of the top layer coordinated exactly with the butterfly that has come out of her cocoon: proof from Mr. Lagerfeld that you must never judge a book by its cover. Shift dress and frayed tweeds, salmon pinks and piped pastel sculpted blue jackets brought in a new palatte and the softer mood was lapped up by onlookers. As day went to dusk and dark leopard print was embroidered, burnished silver sequin signature camellias were sewn on the bust or strewn over long dresses, the true craftsmanship of the flou and tailleurs atliers became apparent. Waists were waspish, and the feel was soft and feminine with sequined in black or lemon yellow or a dress of black lace and puffs of hot pink satin. 

(July 7 2005, PM) Article from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2005/couture/chanel

Photos from the show

Photos at VOGUE.COM

Large beehive with swooping short side fringe.

Large beehive, long side fringe and hair partly down and brought over to one shoulder

Large beehive, hair down at the back and bow at side of the head

Large messy beehive, short straight side fringe and loose messy bits of hair

Beehive, slightly messy at the bottom bit of hair coming loose, side fringe with now at the side

Messy beehive with full front fringe

Large bouffant beehive, slightly of center parting long thin fringe, hair parting down at the back to one side. 

Large messy beehive, swooping side fringe and hair by the eras down, bow on left hand side when parting is and bow on top of the beehive. 

Large beehive, short side fringe slightly neater style. 

http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2005/couture/chanel

Above I chose a few of the different looks from the A/W 2005-6 Chanel Catwalk which I felt shows us the variety of different hair styles from the show. The inspiration of the show you can obviously see it takes elements from the 60's and Chanel gives it a traditional modern twist to the looks. The hair ranges from complete up dos, half up half down beehive with side fringe, middle partings and some are quite neat and some are large and messy accessorised with black bows. The bows are each placed in different areas and some of the beehives are in the center and some are more to one side. I love the contemporary 60's beehive inspiration as you can get really created with the look adding asseccories into the hair and back combing it more messy and loose. I feel these looks can help influence my modern design and help create my own unique 60's inspired fashion hair style. Element that make it modern can be size, style, structure, accessories and many more however having aspects of the era is important to show evidence of the chosen decade.